Down but not out

With reflection several things led to our giving up on our attempt to complete the entire AAWT. And like reflection on any failure there are many 'what ifs'. On Day 5 as the sun sat low in the western sky we raced against time to skirt around the Razor, ascend and descend the Viking and find Barry Saddle to set up camp before dark. We realised we weren't going to make it back to the crew van that night. Our planned one-night camp out was now extending into the third night. We had already rationed our food down to meagre amounts (dinner would be instant porridge and breakfast an anzac biscuit each) and we were hungry beyond belief. We reached 'the chimney' high up the steep face of the Viking. I looked at Phil and asked incredulously if this was the route up. There was no other way. Up we went, clinging to the steep rock, bracing, heaving, straining every sinew to pull ourselves up the treacherous cavern. When we emerged into the warm late afternoon sun we grinned at each other. We were pumped, high on adrenaline. We knew we were quitting the next day but we didn't care. Right now we couldn't be more alive. We had taken on our biggest challenge ever and given it our best shot. We would sleep cold and hungry that night but walk into camp the next day content with our effort.

We have learnt many things about the trail that will be invaluable in our next attempt. But more importantly we learnt many things about ourselves.

Thank-you to all those who followed our, at times slow, progress. The net access was very patchy. Thank-you to Injinji for helping kit us out and supporting us. Thank-you to those who donated to help save Pungalina. But most of all thanks to Kathy, later joined by Dave, for crewing us. The crew were an integral part in making this all possible.

As time permits, we will add more detail and pics about how our adventure unfolded. Of course we are already making notes in preparation for our return attempt. We are now more resolved than ever to complete this amazing trail.

Andy

AAWT1-0 Mellum (ie the trail won this time)

Thanks for the kind words and encouragement guys.

Just back to civilisation after an incredible experience. Truth was we were too optimistic/unrealistic with our itinerary. We set ourselves a very aggressive time target and it was our undoing. The weather didn't help but certainly wasn't the reason for our short coming. We had thunderstorms two of the camp out nights and the second last morning was a white out but generally the days were good (hot).The combination of difficult navigation on zero trail and bush bashing through thick scrub slowed our progress down to as little as 1km/hr.We blew out our 2 day contingency in the first few days arriving at camp 4 on day 6. Surviving on very little food for these unplanned camp out nights (three instead of one) resulted in us going backwards. We were in calorie debt and although never in trouble (we found ample water and had shelter) we were too beat up to continue after several 12-15 hrs days.

Andy, thanks for (easily) convincing me to come along and share your dream. The planning and logistics involved were huge. We learned a lot and will be much better prepared next time. Dave you crazy bugger, gutsy to the end, even when you pulled the pin your crewing was awesome. Coming down the trail on the last day to meet us with food, a sight for sore/hungry eyes. Kath, you are the epitome of excellent crew. Cook, driver, camp set up, photographer, motivator, unbelievable. Thank you so much for giving up your time to share this experience with us. Tim....next time mate.

The AAWT changes year to year, trail markers go missing and the trail disappears as a result of overgrowth. It requires very careful planning and as up to date recon as possible on trail conditions. Thanks to Mr Dutchie for his invaluable course notes/guidance and major kudos to him for his solo unsupported traverse last year, an astounding achievement that deserves more recognition. Upshot:We managed to cover 200kms, almost one third of the course through what is reputed to be both the most picturesque and difficult part of the entire journey. As IDW mentioned the Crosscut Saw with The Cobbler, Mt Buggery, Mt Speculation, The Razor and the majestic Viking in the Wilderness Area have to be seen to be believed. We were fortunate enough to experience this very special part of our great land and truly run with our feet in the clouds. As ultrarunners we are constantly trying to set challenges to test ourselves and see where our limits lie. Every once in a while we are successful. This was one such time.

Cheers, Phil

Day 3

Day 3 is a camp out night with no support for the next 92 k, so preparation was crucial. Andy and Phil started day 3 with a leisurely 9k warm up along the road, then it was time to don the fully laden packs.

Day 2

Day 2 was long, with andy and phil covering 63 ks in around 15 hours. They will fill in the details later but bush bashing through prickle bush with no marked track for several hours topped off an already taxing day. Both made it back to camp around 9pm totally exhausted. Dave didnt run today.

Heres some pics of them earlier in the day when all was perfect, and a very hard working crew member, and some camp planning from the night prior.

The Start

AAWT Eve

The task revisted

With only 3 days left before we actually hit the trail, I thought I would reprint the quote from John Chapman that summarises the AAWT that Phil posted here last January. Chapman wrote the original guidebook and co-authored the latest update so knows the trail intimately. His words paint a picture of what we can expect:

"In many ways, it is the grandest and most difficult of all the long distance tracks in Australia. It is not the longest but with over 27,000 metres of climbing and descending it is indeed a tough walk (equivalent to more than 3 ascents and descents of Mt Everest!)

The entire route takes about 50 to 60 days to complete depending on the number of rest days. Fast walkers do the track in around 30 to 40 days. Several groups have walked it in 22 days but on several days they walked at night to reach campsites and such a short itinerary is not recommended - to walk it in 22 days requires an AVERAGE of 11.9 hours walking each day!. As this is an alpine area with variable weather, it is suggested to build in some extra days to wait out poor weather.

There are not just many tough climbs, the track crosses a number of rivers which have to waded or crossed by rough log bridges. Long sections of the track also have no markers as it passes through wilderness areas. The lack of markers in these regions is deliberate, as management of these zones dictate no formal marked tracks. The track has been planned for experienced bushwalkers to follow and is not suitable for the inexperienced. There are even some short sections without any track at all - you simply follow the ridges, at times pushing through scrub and occasionally may find markers confirming you are on the route. Tents are essential - there are only a couple of huts along the track."

John Chapman

The devil is in the detail

I went over some notes sent to me by Karl today. Karl hiked the trail in February this year, in the reverse direction because of the fires. Unsupported, using pre-placed food drops. Amazing effort. His recollections and notes scribbled on the back of his topos will be invaluable in helping us plan and navigate tricky sections. Amazingly, I met Karl the day after he finished his epic hike. By some bizarre twist of fate the ride he hitched out of Walhalla ended with him overnighting in Geelong, my home town. In true ultrarunning spirit he has been incredibly forthcoming and helpful and we really appreciate his support.

With "possible showers" tipped every day in Walhalla this week, we could get a nice cool and damp start to the run next week. Only 7 more sleeps!

Final preparations

With Coast to Kosciusko run our attention is now firmly focused on getting to Walhalla in good shape. Both Tim and Phil finished the 240km C2K strongly, boding well for the challenge to come. Crewing for Tim I ended up spending considerable time on the Saturday night near the summit of Kosci helping rescue a depleted runner. The weather was fair but brutally cold. I had to stand in the open to maintain phone signal and the light breeze cut through my many layers and had me shaking uncontrollably. It was a salient reminder of how vulnerable we will be out there. Before the sun had fully set we were treated to a magnificent panorama of hazy grey mountains marching off to the horizon. We will be there again in a couple of weeks and will spend some time to soak in the achievement.

Injinji have stuck with us despite the delays. We are being kitted out with the latest graded compression toe socks. With time constraints not allowing any pre-run tryouts, we will be subjecting these socks to the ultimate test. But such is our confidence in the Injinji products that we are happy to "break-them-in" in the field.

We still have our fundraising effort underway. For us it is all about running through the wilderness to help save the wilderness. If we can inspire people to donate even a little towards buying land to save Pungalina - Seven Emus Nature Reserve then we will have accomplished something special. The link to the Pungalina donation site is on the sidebar.

Only 8 more sleeps!

AAWT Restart

OK this is it, we are on again! After much deliberation, and much calendar gazing, and even more weather watching, we have set a restart date for our grand adventure: Tuesday 29th December.

We have been reticent to announce the date for fear of another false start but airfares are all locked in, leave booked and maps getting spread out again. I had planned to spend some time on parts of the course this spring but a family illness has meant that was not possible.

Meanwhile, we have all continued our individual ultra experiences with Phil finishing the massive Ultra-Trail Tour Mont Blanc in August. Then after coming home he finished first place in the inaugural Great Ocean Walk 100km and then a handy second place in the Great North Walk 100 miler. Tim also completed the GOW100km then managed 100km of the GNW100. I stepped into co-race director role to help organise the GOW100s trail races and after a lay-off managed to finish my 4th straight GNW100 miler.

There is a possibility that we may have another runner on the team. But due to their propensity towards injury they don't want to be outed just yet for fear of putting the mozz on things!

This weekend sees the last big hit-out for Phil and Tim at the Coast to Kosciusko, 240km. Kathy and I will be crewing Tim.

After considerable disappointment at the postponement in February we nervously await the coming summer and listen for the fire warnings. Safety will always be our priority. We will continue to update our progress over the next couple of weeks as the start date approaches.

As Dave would say: "Bring it." Or as I would say: "Only 23 more sleeps!"

Putting the Injinjis to the test.

I have just returned home having completed my second Hardrock 100 and Phil is now off to Europe in the build-up to Ultra Tour Mont Blanc. I will post a full race report on my own blog in due course but I wanted to comment on my first real test of the Injinji compression socks. While I struggled with the altitude and terrain I had no issues with blisters. Coupled with copious doses of Blistershield powder, the Injinjis went for 40hrs 50min of the toughest trails in the world, crossing icy streams, frozen snowbanks, dusty roads and rocky tracks without ever needing to take a shoe off. 

I think this finish-line photo says it all:

That's one piece of gear definitely on the list for AAWT!

And if you missed seeing them in action there's a clip here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZwJXDSHod4&feature=channel

When do 100 mile trail races become training runs?

With AAWT on hold, we are busy doing what we love doing: running trails. I am currently in the San Juan Mountains, part of the Rockies in Colorado, USA, preparing to run the Hardrock100. Being held at altitude I am spending 3 weeks hiking and running the trails to prepare. I can't help thinking when I am out there daily for hours how this is great AAWT training. I am updating my progress here:
http://www.howmanysleeps.blogspot.com/

Meanwhile, Phil is only weeks away from heading to Europe and his big run at Mont Blanc. He is currently logging huge weeks on trails to build a solid base for his UTMB race.

All this preparation will surely stand us in good stead when we finally get to Walhalla!

Looking forward to Spring

While the snow has started falling across the Alps signifying the onset of winter, our attention has turned to the spring when the thaw will give birth to the alpine wildflowers. We must balance our enthusiasm to get out onto the AAWT with the need to wait for the snow to melt. So November looks like our new start date.

Meanwhile we have been doing what we love to do: running trails. Tim and Phil ran the Six Foot Track 45km race in March. Then Phil joined me for some pure trail running at Wilson's Promontory for the Prom 80km (the 100km option was removed due to fire damage) in April. All three of us made the pilgrimage up to the Blue Mountains last weekend to compete in the North Face 100, a really tough, hilly 100km.

And there is much more to come. In June I head to the San Juan Mountains in Colorado to prepare for the Hardrock100, one of the toughest 100 mile trail races on the planet. And in August Phil will be in France to run in the Ultra Tour Mont Blanc. The UTMB is the biggest 100 miler on the calendar, and despite the comparative lack of altitude, rivals Hardrock for vertical gain and loss. We will keep you informed of our progress on these epic runs that will form the base for our training for our attempt to run the AAWT.

The postponement was a disappointment but in no way lessons our enthusiasm or desire to get out there. It has allowed us to test and further refine our gear and reassess our planned itinerary. Remarkably the actual trail was pretty much spared fire damage. It is still there waiting for us and the sirens are beckoning us from ahigh. Like any ultra much of the experience is in the journey just getting to the start line. We will continue to share that journey as we prepare for the run of our lives: to run the Injinji Alpine Ultra.

Postponement

After posting the last entry the true extent of the disaster throughout Victoria became evident. It quickly became clear that there is no way we could start our AAWT run as planned. Even if the trail was not directly affected we could not continue out of respect to those who have suffered casualties and respect for the emergency services. As it is, the parks we will pass through are closed. While we are disappointed there are far more serious issues at hand that puts it all into perspective.

Thankyou to Injinji and all those who have donated to Australian Wildlife Conservancy for your support to this point and rest assured that we will be patient and our chance to run the AAWT will come eventually. Meanwhile our thoughts are with those who have suffered loss and to all those who are putting their life on the line to fight these fires. A

Record temperatures and bushfires

As we swelter through record heatwaves we watch the news for bushfires that burn across the country. While our journey is by choice those out there fighting the fires don't have that luxury so it keeps our perspective well grounded. Our thoughts are with those fighting the fires and those who have suffered casualties.

Meanwhile, we will continue the planning in the hope that the worst is passed. With less than a week to go we have just odds and ends to be tied up. Dave has loaded the entire AAWT onto a GPS. I have cross referenced this with the topos and it is pretty accurate. It also shows the total ascent and descent to be over 30,000 metres and total distance as 677km! Probably could have done without that bit of information.

All our gear has arrived and we have been trail testing any new bits. Injinji have done a fantastic job helping secure some great gear and of course some great new socks. I am particularly eanamoured with the new line of Silver Series socks. So much so that I will be wearing them instead of my trusty Performance toesocks on the AAWT. The Silver Series are over calf length providing just enough compressive effect to be supportive but not too much to be restrictive. They are also lined with silver thread making them more resistant to odour. I have worn my new pair for five runs straight without washing them, and although I cannot convince my wife to smell test them, they still don't smell!

Packing is well under way. It is hard to plan for blizzard conditions when the mercury is over 47*C outside and we are watching bushfires. But in the Alps anything is possible. We will continue to monitor the bushfires and the weather and if all goes to plan this time next week we will have completed the first leg of our AAWT Ultra. A

Planned Itinerary

I have mapped out a broad plan of our (maybe ambitious) schedule. While to the veteran ultrarunner the individual distances may seem conservative much of the terrain is mountainous and rough and we will be carrying far more gear than on the typical ultra. We hope to meet the mothership on all nights except those indicated. This will allow us to go light on most days, while still carrying emergency gear (and perhaps some added weight in Phil's pack to slow him down). The distances vary from book to book and thanks to Spoonmans generosity (access to his extensive library) I have tried to best approximate the track distances. A


1. Walhalla-Thomson Valley Rd 40km 40km
2. Thomson V Rd Jamieson-Licola Rd 52km 92km
3. Jamieson-Licola Rd – The Nobs** 37km 129km
4. The Nobs-East Riley Rd 49km 178km
5. East Riley (Buffalo) Rd-Mt Hotham 44km 222km
6. Mt Hotham-**Maddison Hut Site 42km 264km
7. Maddison Hut Site-Mitta Mitta River 42km 306km
8. Mitta Mitta-Mt Hope Rd 43km 349km
9. Mt Hope Rd-**Cowombat Flats 41km 390km
10. Cowombat Flat-Charlotte Pass 59km 449km
11. Charlotte Pass-**Tumut River 49km 498km
12. Tumut River-Kiandra 58km 556km
13. Kiandra-Blue Waterholes 51km 607km
14. Blue Waterholes-Tharwa 60km 667km

**Denotes camp out nights

6. Pick up night gear at Langford Gap (@30km)
7. Drop night gear at Omeo Hwy (@22km)
9. Night gear at Limestone Rd/Cowombat Tr Jnt(@28km)
10. Drop night gear at Dead Horse Gap (@42km)
11. Pick up night gear at Guthega Power Station (@17km)
13. Access at Port Phillip Fire Trail
14. Access at Orroral Space Station

The Task

"In many ways, it is the grandest and most difficult of all the long distance tracks in Australia. It is not the longest but with over 27,000 metres of climbing and descending it is indeed a tough walk (equivalent to more than 3 ascents and descents of Mt Everest!)

The entire route takes about 50 to 60 days to complete depending on the number of rest days. Fast walkers do the track in around 30 to 40 days. Several groups have walked it in 22 days but on several days they walked at night to reach campsites and such a short itinerary is not recommended - to walk it in 22 days requires an AVERAGE of 11.9 hours walking each day!. As this is an alpine area with variable weather, it is suggested to build in some extra days to wait out poor weather.

There are not just many tough climbs, the track crosses a number of rivers which have to waded or crossed by rough log bridges. Long sections of the track also have no markers as it passes through wilderness areas. The lack of markers in these regions is deliberate, as management of these zones dictate no formal marked tracks. The track has been planned for experienced bushwalkers to follow and is not suitable for the inexperienced. There are even some short sections without any track at all - you simply follow the ridges, at times pushing through scrub and occasionally may find markers confirming you are on the route. Tents are essential - there are only a couple of huts along the track."

John Chapman

Maps, lots and lots of maps!

The maps have arrived. Twenty-seven maps. The enormity of what we are undertaking suddenly hits home as I unfold map after map and trace the Australian Alps Walking Track across endless topographical contours. Hidden in the crisp folds of these new maps lies our path across the high country.

Our planning is well underway with lists of gear and lists of jobs to-do. Ultrarunners love the chance to paw over lists of gear. Better still, we love choosing new gear. Getting us to do the to-dos isn’t quite as easy. We’d rather be out running. That’s when a good crew is priceless. Having someone inspired enough to take part behind the scenes and organise the stuff that needs doing but otherwise probably wouldn’t get done, makes all the difference. Thanks Kathy.

We have all the ingredients, we have the mixing bowl, we even have a chef, now we just need to bake this cake. Come February 14 we get to eat our cake. We get to run endless trails through remote Australian bush. Well, not quite endless. Somewhere around 650km. Whoever said you can’t have your cake and eat it too? A

The Journey Begins

Sometimes you’ve just got to push the boundaries. Step outside the 9 to 5. Sometimes you have to test your limits. Sometimes you find yourself drawn inexorably towards a challenge that both excites and scares you at the same time. This is our challenge.

This is not a race, this will be a journey. Our journey. A journey for “Mellum”, three great mates, tackling the toughest trail Australia has to offer. We plan to run the Australian Alps Walking Track from Walhalla in eastern Victoria to the outskirts of Canberra, roughly 650km.

This blog is our way of documenting and sharing our adventure. True to our ethos, we have pledged to raise money for the Australian Wildlife Conservancy. Our major sponsor, Injinji are offering 10% off when using our promotional code and have also offered to donate 10% of sales that quote our code to AWC.

So follow us as we test our limits and live our dream and attempt to run the entire AAWT. It doesn't get any better than this. A